FAQs

We produce in Taiwan, China, Vietnam and Korea in factories with which we have had close personal relationships for many years. These factories have become leading manufacturers of tents, mats, backpacks and other high quality outdoor equipment. In terms of efficiency, work safety and production quality, they are more like laboratories than factories. In terms of wages, we pay above the national average in each country. Most employees have been working for the factories for years, which increases product quality. Most outdoor products are made by hand, which means labor costs are significant. Product costs would more than double if we produced in Europe.

Factory compliance with social standards is independently monitored and documented. But since our product designers and managers spend weeks in the factories, we can monitor it ourselves.

EXPED does not sell directly, but you can buy EXPED gear from many outdoor stores and online retailers. Please visit our retailer locator to find an EXPED vendor near you.

All EXPED products come with a 5 year limited warranty on materials and workmanship. At our discretion, we will repair or replace any product that has issues due to a manufacturing defect.

For defects that occur due to normal wear and tear, negligence, and acts of nature (a.o. broken zippers), we offer the option to have them repaired for a minimal cost. You can find more information about the repair and warranty procedure under Repair and Warranty.

A LOT number is a 4 digit number. A LOT # is either printed directly on the product or will be on a black tag. Older model products will have a small white tag.
 

• Tents:
  There are three places to find the LOT # on most EXPED Tents. First is on the exterior of the stuff sack. Close to the EXPED logo will be the name of the tent, and you’ll find a black tag printed with the LOT. The fly will have it on the perimeter (i.e., Lyra & Outerspace), or if there is an EXPED logo on the door of the fly, it will be printed on the underside of the black tag with the name of the tent (i.e., Orion & Mira HL). The inner tent will have a pocket with many tags sewn in, the small black tag with the name of the tent will have a LOT # printed on the underside.
• Tarps: 
  Along the perimeter of the tarp, on the underside, will be a tag with the LOT #.
• Sleeping Bags: 
  Generally, there will be a collection of tags on a sleeping bag, and among them is a small black tag along the draft collar, or at the foot end for older bags.
• Sleeping Mats: 
  On newer mats, the LOT # is printed near the valve(s) along the outer seam. For 2-D (backpacking) mats this is on the bottom, and for 3-D (basecamp) mats it is on the side wall above/between the valves. On our older “twist-valve” mats, the LOT number will be on a small black tag on the stuff sack near the name of the product, or on the outlet of the pump-bag. If you cannot locate the LOT number of your mat, please let us know.
• Pillows: 
  There are two styles of pillows, pillows with removable air bladders (i.e., Down, Mega) that do not have LOT # printed; and pillows like our mats (i.e., Air Pillow, Air Pillow UL, Versa, Ultra) that will have it printed on the bottom of the pillow at the center along the seam.
• Backpacks/Gear bags: 
  On the shoulder harness there are two small black tags, by the slider on the left side (if you are wearing the pack). One indicates the size/style, the other has the LOT #. This also applies to duffle bags that can be converted to be worn as a backpack.
• Storage: 
  At the roll top closure there is a black tag that indicates the size of the item, and under is printed the LOT #. Some packsack items do not have LOT #s associated with them.
• Hammocks: 
  In most cases you’ll find a black tag on the inside of the pouch the hammock comes in, or it will be attached to the hammock.
• Booties: 
  On the inside cuff of the item there are two black tags, one with the product name/size and the LOT #.

We recommend storing the rolled up mat with both valves open in a dry and cool place e.g. under the bed.

Here are a few helpful videos on how to repair sleeping mats. You can also find instructions in the repair kit included with your sleeping mat.

How to Repair a Leaking Sleeping Mat

We recommend cleaning the mat with warm water and a mild detergent (no bleach!). Carefully clean the mat with a cloth or soft sponge. Make sure all valves are completely closed. Rinse well. The mat should be allowed to air dry after cleaning. DO NOT put your mat in a washing machine or dryer.

As with a comforter, the down works best when at its fluffiest. Therefore, before you lie down, you should shake the down mat slightly and pat it out so that the down can redistribute itself evenly again after it has been rolled up. Then you sleep nice and warm.

The valve is designed to be directly compatible with NEMO, Sea to Summit, and Mountain Equipment mat valves. Two separately available adapters are available for other valve types:

• The Universal Valve Adapter allows connection to flat valves with an inner diameter of 18 mm and 22 mm, as well as to spigot valves with an outer diameter between 16 mm and 21 mm.
• In addition, there is the Flat Valve Adapter, which was specially developed for EXPED flat valves with an inner diameter of 30 mm.

Numerous other adapters can be downloaded free of charge as 3D print files from Thingiverse and printed at your nearest 3D printing service.

If you are on the road, you can easily repair the tent pole by using the included repair sleeve. On most of our tents you will find this as a spacer by the ventilation hoods. The only exceptions are the HL and UL tents. There you will find the repair sleeve with the other accessories in the pack sack.

To make the repair in the field, slide the sleeve over the broken section of the pole and tape it in place. When you return from your trip, you can bring the pole back for repair.

When you return from your trip, whether it's a weekend or several weeks, it's a good idea to put your tent up again in a dry place so it can dry out. Be sure to clean the interior, wipe off any dirt that has stuck to the underside, and clean all zippers with a damp, warm rag. If the tent has been used in dirty and/or sandy conditions, you can lightly spray it with water to loosen the dirt from the material, coating, seams and zippers.

How long you can use your tent depends on a variety of factors. UV radiation is the main enemy of all materials used outdoors. Ultralight fabrics made of synthetic fibers are particularly sensitive. The type of use, i.e. whether the tent is pitched daily for months, as on an expedition, for example, or whether the tent is only used for a short time each month, has a great influence on the behavior of the materials. For example, a tent may already show damage to the material after an expedition (it becomes brittle and may tear), but with normal use the tent will last for years.

The influence of UV radiation on the tent can be influenced. Place the tent so that it is not in full sun during the day.

Another enemy is dirt and sand. These promote the abrasion of coatings on the fabrics and sand down the zippers, so to speak. Important: After using the tent in a sandy environment, be sure to clean the tent and especially the zippers with water.

Moisture can also shorten the useful life of your tent. If a tent is stored with moisture between layers, mold will grow and degrade fabric and coating. In addition, mold can also leave an offensive odor, making the tent unusable.

All these reasons make it difficult to predict the life of your tent.

Although it cannot always be prevented, there are several ways to reduce or eliminate the formation of condensation.

1. reduce or remove as much wet equipment as possible from inside the tent.

2. ventilate the tent when conditions permit.

3. use the appropriate tent floor (footprint) to create a barrier against the cold, wet ground.

4. use a small sponge to wipe off condensation.

Unfortunately, condensation cannot be completely eliminated from a tent design. Cool air must flow into the tent and warm air must be able to escape. If this is not possible, condensation will form. Whenever possible, ventilate the tent, either by opening a vent in the top of the flysheet or leaving the flysheet open all night. The goal is to create a cross flow that ventilates the tent and removes the warm air.

To prevent your tent from getting moldy during storage, there is only 1 remedy. The tent must be 100% dry before you pack and store it. It is best to store the tent loose in a dry, warm environment.

Before storing a tent or a tarp, it is necessary to make sure that everything is completely dry. While a tarp dries relatively quickly, a tent may well take several days to dry. Storing a tent or tarp that is still wet can cause permanent damage to the coating. Store your tent and tarp accordingly in a dry place.

A tent should be kept as clean as possible. Remove dirt or bird droppings with water. Avoid detergents or mechanical cleaning, as these can damage the coating. Never clean a tent in a washing machine.

The footprint protects the tent floor from abrasion or damage through sharp objects.

Our 4-season tents are designed for optimal protection against wind and rain. This means that on one side the rainfly reaches the ground to protect the canopy from driving rain, wind and sand. The opposite side has a gap that allows free flow of air for venting. This also hinders high concentrations of carbon monoxide.

The floor requires a higher water column to cope with the pressure created by standing or kneeling on the fabric floor.

This is because a rainfly does not require the same water column a jacket may need to cope with the pressure created by backpack shoulder straps as an example. The waterproofness of a rainfly can be compared to an umbrella that is waterproof purely through the tension of the fabric.

A freestanding tent does not get its shape by tensioning it with various guy ropes, as is the case with tunnel tents. It stands already after pushing in the poles. However, this does not mean that it can or should be left standing straight. However, additional securing with cords and pegs is certainly recommended in most cases. The advantage of a self-standing tent is mainly an easier set-up for a single person or persons.

Dirty zippers wear out. As a result, they no longer close properly. To counteract this wear, it is important to clean them regularly. Especially if you are traveling in sandy or dusty areas. Good care products are available from McNett, such as Zip Care Zipper Cleaner & Lubricant. On the road, you can clean the zipper with a toothbrush and lubricate it with a bar of soap.

Resin stains on the outer tent are best removed with an ice cube or, better yet, a cold pack. On the inside of the stain, cool the area until the resin is hard and brittle, then carefully scrape off with a spoon. Any remaining stain on the fabric can be removed with Revivex Pro Cleaner from GearAid.

The minimum weight of your tarp includes the tarp and the guy ropes. The maximum weight also includes all the pegs, the pack sack and any accessories or repair kits that come with the tarp.

When you return from your trip, whether it is a weekend or several weeks, it is a good idea to set up your tarp again in a dry place so that it can dry out. If the tarp has been used in dirty and/or sandy conditions, you can spray it lightly with water to loosen the dirt from the material, coating and seams.

How long you can use your tarp depends on a variety of factors. UV radiation is the main enemy of all materials used outdoors. Ultra-light fabrics made of synthetic fibres are particularly sensitive. The type of use, i.e. whether the tarp is set up every day for months, for example, or whether the tarp is only used for a short time each month, has a great influence on the behaviour of the materials.

The influence of UV radiation on the tarp can be influenced. Position the tarp so that it is not in full sun during the day.

Moisture can also shorten the life of your tarp. If a tarp is stored with moisture between the layers, mould will grow and degrade the fabric and coating. Mould can also leave an offensive odour, making the tarp unusable.

All these reasons make it difficult to predict the life of your tarp.

There is only one way to prevent your tarp from getting mouldy during storage. The tarp must be 100% dry before you pack and store it. It is best to store the tarp loose in a dry, warm environment.

None of our tarp models require seam sealing to work well. Exped's "extreme" (siliconised) models' seams cannot be taped at the factory. These seams can be treated with seam sealer afterwards for safety. However, it is important to use the correct product. Be sure to follow the instructions for use to achieve a clean seal of the outer tent seams.

For all our "Extreme" tarps we recommend the use of McNett SeamGrip SIL, which has been specially developed for siliconised nylon fabrics.

For all other Exped tarps with PU coating, McNett SeamGrip TF is the right choice. These tarps are glued waterproof at the factory. So repairing a damaged seam is probably the only reason why this would be necessary.

A tarp should be kept as clean as possible. Remove dirt or bird droppings with water. Avoid detergents or mechanical cleaning as these can damage the coating. Never clean a tarp in the washing machine.

Tarps can behave like sails in windy conditions and high forces can act on the fabric, seams and cords in gusts. These can damage the tarp. Therefore, it is important to take the wind into account when setting up the tarp.

This is because a rainfly does not require the same water column a jacket may need to cope with the pressure created by backpack shoulder straps as an example. The waterproofness of a rainfly can be compared to an umbrella that is waterproof purely through the tension of the fabric.

Water column or hydrostatic pressure is a unit of measure used to describe the waterpoofness of fabrics. A 10 cm² fabric sample is tensioned under a water cylinder. The point under which droplets are pressed through the fabric indicates the water column.

Silicone coating is more expensive than PU coating and is mostly applied to polyamide (nylon) fabrics. The silicone coating increases the tear resistance and UV stability of the fabric. Silicone-coated fabrics behave dynamically when wet, which means that the tent has to be re-tensioned.

These fabrics cannot be seam-welded. To make the seam waterproof nevertheless, cotton coated polyester threads are used, which expand when they get wet. In addition, these seams can be post-treated with a special silicone seam sealer (SilNet).

A PU coating makes the tarp fabric waterproof. PU coatings remain flexible in cold temperatures and do not stretch when wet. PU coated rainfly seams can be factory seam taped for waterproof performance. PU coatings are less UV resistant than silicone coatings and can turn brittle with time. PU coatings are slightly heavier than silicone coatings.

Resin stains on the tarp are best removed with an ice cube or better with a cold pack. On the inside of the stain, cool the area until the resin is hard and brittle, then carefully scrape off with a spoon. Any remaining stain on the fabric can be removed with Revivex Pro Cleaner from GearAid.

Our "Extreme" outer tent fabric is made of nylon coated with silicone on both sides. The silicone coating makes the fabric waterproof and does not reduce tear resistance like other types of coating. At the same time, the silicone coating protects the fabric from UV radiation. Our 40 D Nylon 6 fabric is absolutely waterproof and elastic. This makes it the first choice for tents in the expedition and 4-season trekking category.

Advantages of the "Extreme" fabric:

- high tear resistance
- durability
- UV protection
- elasticity increases the tension of the outer tent and results in a sturdy tent in the wind

Disadvantages of the "Extreme" fabric:

- Fabric stretches because it absorbs water. The tent must therefore be re-tensioned when wet.
- silicone-coated fabric cannot be seam-taped.

For which use do we recommend "Extreme" tents?

- Tours with a focus on durability
- Expeditions
- Tours lasting several weeks
- Tours in exposed locations (high winds, bad weather, cold, snow)

The "UL" outer tent fabric is also made of nylon, but at 15 D it is significantly lighter than the "Extreme" fabric and is therefore used for very lightweight tents. This fabric is coated with silicone on the outside to protect the nylon against UV radiation. On the inside, it is coated with polyurethane (PU) to ensure a high level of waterproofness and to weld the seams from the inside with seam tape.

Advantages of the "UL" fabric:

- optimum ratio of stability and weight
- seam tapes welded for guaranteed waterproofness

Disadvantages of the "UL" fabric:

- Not as durable as the "Extreme" fabric

For which use do we recommend "UL" tents?

- Tours with a focus on lightweight
- Multi-day tours

Our "Extreme" tarp fabric is made of nylon coated with silicone on both sides. The silicone coating makes the fabric waterproof and does not reduce tear resistance like other types of coating. At the same time, the silicone coating protects the fabric from UV radiation. Our 40 D Nylon 6 fabric is absolutely waterproof and elastic.

Advantages of the "Extreme" fabric:

- high tear resistance
- durability
- UV protection

Disadvantages of the "Extreme" fabric:

- Fabric stretches because it absorbs water. The tarp must therefore be re-stretched when wet.
- silicone-coated fabric cannot be seam-taped.

For which use do we recommend "Extreme" tarps?

- Tours with a focus on durability
- tours lasting several weeks

The "UL" tarp fabric is also made of nylon, but at 15 D it is significantly lighter than the "Extreme" fabric and is therefore used for very lightweight tarps. This fabric is coated with silicone on the outside to protect the nylon against UV radiation. On the inside, it is coated with polyurethane (PU) to ensure a high level of waterproofness and to weld the seams from the inside with seam tape.

Advantages of the "UL" fabric:

- optimum ratio of stability and weight
- seam tapes welded for guaranteed waterproofness

Disadvantages of the "UL" fabric:

- Not as durable as the "Extreme" fabric

For which use do we recommend "UL" tarps?

- Tours with a focus on lightweight
- multi-day tours

Our "Versa" tarps are made of heavier 70 D polyester, which is coated with polyurethane on the inside.

Advantages of the "Versa" tarp:

- durable fabric
- less sensitive to UV radiation
- the tarp can also be used as a groundsheet

Disadvantages of the "Versa" tarp:

- heavier with the same surface area as "Extreme" or "UL" tarps

For which use do we recommend "Versa" tarps?

- Tours where weight is not an issue
- tours lasting several weeks

Yes! The BV 450, BV 500 and Garcia 812 all fit horizontally in the Lightning 60 and Thunder 50/70 backpacks. The BV 450 also fits in the Lightning 45 backpack.

The torso length is the length of a person's back, measured from the hip to the shoulder, and is an important factor in the fitting process of a backpack.

Depending on the volume of the backpack and its intended use, the suspension system of a backpack becomes a key criterion. Determining back length is not as critical for shorter hikes or everyday backpacks, but is crucial for expedition, trekking and touring backpacks. With these backpacks, the pack weight can only be optimally transferred to the hips if the back length and suspension system are correctly matched.

The center of the hip belt is ideally located on the hip bones (upper edge of the pelvis) and the sacrum to carry most of the load, especially with large internal frame backpacks. There are exceptions where a shorter backpack length is better, such as in alpine situations, because this allows a shorter overall length of the backpack suspension system to allow easier access to the climbing harness.

To determine your back length, use a tape measure to measure the distance from the top of your shoulders to the top of your hip bone (pelvic rim). This is best done by a friend who can properly place and read the tape measure on your back. Any EXPED retailer should also be able to help you determine your back length.

Extra Short (XS) = 36 - 41 cm / 14.2 - 16.1 in

Small (S): 42 - 47 cm / 16.5 - 18.5 in

Medium (M): 48 - 52 cm / 18.9 - 20.5 in

Long (L): 53 - 58 cm / 20.9 - 22.8 in

Adjustable Men's: 41 - 57 cm / 16.1 - 22.4 in

Adjustable Women's: 36 - 53 cm / 14.2 - 20.9 in

The EXPED backpack line includes both waterproof and weatherproof models. Waterproof means these backpacks keep water out unless submerged in water. Weatherproof means that the fabric and seams are completely waterproof, but zippers and hydration ports are water resistant and not 100% waterproof.

All other backpacks in the EXPED line have coated fabrics to prevent water penetration. These backpacks do not have taped seams. Typically, other features such as durability or weight reduction are the focus of these products and are designed to be used with our waterproof drybags to keep the contents dry.

All backpack fabrics used by EXPED are by definition "waterproof" due to their coating and have a water column of at least 1500 mm. The distinction therefore relates primarily to construction and processing:

In "water-resistant" backpacks, water can enter the backpack through the seams and through the zippers.

We define "weatherproof" as backpacks with a water column of at least 3000 mm, which also have water-repellent zippers to the main compartment and seam-taped seams. Although the zippers are very water repellent, water can enter through the zipper during heavy rains.

Our backpacks labeled "waterproof" have a water column of 3000 to 10'000 mm, are also seam sealed or welded, but use water repellent zippers only on exterior compartments, not on the main compartment. The main compartment of these models have a waterproof seal by means of a roll top. In these models, we do not refer to exterior compartments with zippers as "waterproof", but only as "weatherproof". No rule without exception: A 100% waterproof Drysuit zipper is used on the Tempest Duffles.

EXPED measures the volume of its packs using standardized plastic balls. The volume declarations are exact. The external dimensions are measured at the widest point. Calculating volume based on dimensions can lead to different values.

We recommend running the hydration tube between the main compartment and the lid (e.g. with slightly open roll-top). Alternatively the bladder can be placed under the lid when the roll-top is closed.

Mechanical abrasion, cuts, tears, burn holes, rodent bites as well as damage through drag-and-drop are not covered by warranty. In most cases these issues can be repaired at a moderate cost.

Storage of a backpack in humid conditions or wet gear in a pack can lead to hydrolisis and delamination of the PU coating. This is not covered by warranty and cannot be repaired.

The shoulder straps and hip belts are shorter on the women's model than on the men's model, and in some cases the suspension system is narrower and/or shorter. Details can be found at the respective model. Of course, women's models can also be worn by men and vice versa.

Manufacturing defects of seams are covered by our 5-year limited warranty. Seams damaged through use do not fall under warranty but can be repaired at a moderate cost.

Zipper failure does not fall under warranty, especially if improperly used or not maintained regulary. Zippers should be kept clean. In most cases we can repair or replace damaged zippers for a reasonable cost.

Backpacks (this is not brand specific!) should never be washed in washing machines or dried in a tumble dryer as this can lead to permanent damage of the fabrics and the PU coating . A further problem is that detergent residue and fabric softeners can damage the coating. We recommend washing your backpack by hand in warm water using pH-neutral soap, baby shampoo or shower gel. Stains can be removed with a soft brush. Air dry thoroughly (no direct sunlight or heat source) and store in a dry place.

We guarantee that our down comes from ducks or geese raised in an animal-friendly environment. They are given access to pasture, a constant supply of water, feed and shelter. In addition, they are not force-fed for liver production and live plucking. Our down is sourced in eastern Europe. Our German supplier is a traditional, well-established company with a 120-year history in the industry and is independently certified according to the criteria above.

The EN (European Standard) rating is a standardized test that aims to set measurable targets and standardize temperature claims for sleeping bags. It is designed to help the consumer make an informed decision by using independently derived temperature values. Each EN sleeping bag test has four temperature ratings: Upper Limit, Comfort, Lower Limit, and Extreme. The three most common ratings are the following temperature ranges: Comfort, (Lower) Limit, and Extreme.   

For these measurements, it is assumed that a “standard man” is 25 years old, 1.73 m tall, and weighs 73 kg; a “standard woman” is 25 years old, 1.60 m tall, and weighs 60 kg.    

• Comfort: the temperature at which an average woman can expect to sleep comfortably in a relaxed position.   
• Limit: the temperature at which an average man can sleep comfortably for eight hours without waking up.   
• Extreme: the minimum temperature at which an average woman can tolerate severe cold exposure for six hours. There is a risk of damage to health (no danger of death from hypothermia, but frostbite is theoretically possible).   

 Most companies advertise the Limit rating for men's sleeping bags and the Comfort rating for women's.   

It is best to store the sleeping bag in the mesh storage bag provided. This will ensure that the insulation retains its maximum bulk and thermal performance. When traveling, it is okay to compress the sleeping bag and carry it in the included stuff sack.

When you return from a trip, it is very important to let your sleeping bag dry completely. Then store it in the mesh storage bag in a dry and temperature controlled place.

If you wash your sleeping bag too often, the insulation can suffer (down or synthetic). The insulating power may decrease. We recommend cleaning the sleeping bag with a damp sponge. If the sleeping bag needs a more thorough cleaning, use only a front-loading machine (no agitator!) and a special detergent from Nikwax or McNett.

Before you put the bag in the washing machine, close the zipper. Use a cold water and gentle wash cycle, and after the wash cycle is complete, run a second rinse cycle without detergent. This will ensure that all detergent residue is removed. Two spin cycles will help get a lot of moisture out of the sleeping bag.

It is best to hang the sleeping bag afterwards and air dry it. Keep massaging the sleeping bag the down tufts apart. Depending on the humidity, it may take several days to dry completely. If you need to dry it faster, use a tumble dryer on low heat (often there are special down drying programs). To loosen up the down in the dryer, you can put some tennis balls in the dryer with it.

Packsacks and drybags (this is not brand specific) should never be washed in washing machines or dried in a tumble dryer as this can lead to permanent damage of the fabrics and the PU coating . A further problem is detergent residue and fabric softeners that damage the coating. We recommend washing your drybag by hand in warm water using ph-neutral soap, baby shampoo or shower gel. Stains can be removed with a soft brush. Air dry thoroughly (no direct sunlight or heat source) and store in a dry place.

Please note that the warranty covers materials and workmanship, not damage caused by use. Durable waterproof repairs of holes or tears can be made easily with a sleeping mat repair kit or with PU and silicone glue that can be purchased at your local outdoor gear shop. Small punctures can be located easily by holding the drybag up against a light source (sunlight or headlamp); mark the puncture and apply the glue according to manufacturers instructions.

Tip: Depending on the coating of your drybag either use PU glue for PU coatings or silicone glue on silicone coatings.